Meeting Karl Sandgreen in Ilulissat
Ice, fishing, education, municipal elections, Greenlandic independence and the tourist economy are all kinds of subjects that cross the mind of the CEO of the Icefjord Center, a resident of Greenland’s third-largest city.
The packed snow that leads to the Icefjord Center crunches underfoot, and the road skirts a white field punctuated by dog kennels. Large crows patrol the area, letting out a few low caws. It’s -5°C under a blue sky, and hundreds of sled dogs are resting, coiled up like ropes. Just outside the town of Ilulissat, to the south, large bay windows stand out beneath a long roof, sharp at the entrance and round in the middle. It’s an educational center dedicated to the history of ice and Inuit culture. We’re going to meet Karl Sandgreen, its CEO and keeper of the site.
Behind the center’s ceiling-high windows, we settle into varnished wooden chairs. A warm place with hushed acoustics. Karl Sandgreen, with short dark hair, speaks with squinted eyes, pointing to the ancient settlement nearby and the path leading to the fjord and iceberg fields. The latter, accompanied by patches of pack ice, are the pride of the bay’s inhabitants. Always charmed by their presence, Karl Sandgreen is quite proud of never having tried to climb one. It’s a crazy thing to do when you consider how dangerous it is”.
The landscape has been recognized by UNESCO, but the ice is above all “the source”, he repeatedly assures us, the starting point of the food chain that feeds the town’s excellent fish: halibut. “Everyone comes from a fishing family,” he explains, pointing to the icebergs that rise above the sea.
“I wanted to be a fisherman too, but my parents advised me to study. When the weather or the ice is bad, we don’t bring in anything for weeks.” He remembers his father and the times of deprivation when incomes were low. Despite some regrets about not marrying into the profession, Karl Sandgreen is happy to have chosen education and tourism.
The Icefjord Center welcomes 25,000 visitors every year. It welcomes all Greenlandic schools and tourists from North America, the Nordic countries and Germany free of charge. A new international airport is under construction in this town of 5,000 inhabitants. The cranes are being deployed and the machines are working in the various neighborhoods for new housing and hotels, in preparation for meeting demand.
“I ran for local office because we need to do something for tourism in Ilulissat and northern Greenland. We need to organize it better,” he explains, sounding very concerned. It’s hard not to mention the results of the municipal elections held on April 1. Karl Sandgreen campaigned alongside members of the Demokraatit party.
They received a considerable number of votes, but the opposition formed a coalition, winning the mayoralty. Nothing has yet been decided at regional level, and his party still has a chance. 21 days of discussions remain. “We’re going through a very intense time with regard to the tourism sector, we have a very short season, concentrated in the summer, and everyone is fighting for the same tourists,” he explains.
All the city’s hotels are full at this time of year. “There have already been overflows. When several cruise ships arrive in town at the same time, there can be 7,000 visitors in town, and we’re not in a position to manage that,” he explains.
A few recurring anecdotes remain in our memories. Basic necessities are in short supply. The remains of the old village have been damaged. People have written their names in paint on rocks in the wild.
“We need to find the right balance, the right number of tourists so that the city doesn’t become overcrowded. This is something the Icelanders have experienced. We need to take the time to find the right balance,” he says.
To keep everyone happy, Karl Sandgreen hopes that the crowds will spread out over time. It’s April, and it’s a good season for dog sledding. “The winter season starts in February,” he notes. The days get longer and excursions are possible, unlike in December and January.
“Mid-January, it’s too dark, too icy, too windy, you can’t really sail or fly a helicopter,” he adds. “It’s not really something we can do anything about. But we’d like to be able to count on cultural and sporting events.”
Market access is one of the city’s main challenges. The Danes own part of the tourism business, and there is a growing feeling that this economic windfall should rightfully belong to the locals. President Trump’s latest remarks have stirred up debate in Greenland, and polarized viewpoints.
“Some people think America is better than Denmark, and if you say you’re against Trump, everyone will think you’re with the Danes,” he remarks with a slight lump in his throat. “Nationalism has become very big in Greenland at the moment, and in my opinion, it’s too much. I don’t want my daughter to go through a ‘Greenland only’ period.”
The plan for independence has been in place since 1979. Greenland got a parliament, then ministries. “Trump’s speech put it in people’s heads that we should do it now,” he remarks and snaps his fingers. “But if you think about the way the Trump administration is going about it, it’s a tough, deceptive strategy. It’s a very hard time for the country.”
National elections elected Demokraatit as head of government, and a coalition representing 75% of the population was formed with the mission of not caving in under pressure.
The Icefjord Center acts on several levers: educational, economic and scientific, all necessary for the town’s development. Karl Sandgreen doesn’t think he’ll ever see Greenland’s independence, but he wants his daughter to enjoy it one day. C.L.
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